NOVEMBER 2004--Hasn’t everybody heard of Everest? You don’t have to be a mountaineer or a historian to have heard of Everest. The word has passed into common usage to describe the "ultimate challenge," the "biggest," the "goal," and in more recent times it has graced us with IMAX adventure movies and National Enquirer disaster headlines.

In post-war Britain, hiking and climbing was a national sport. Mallory and Irving, who died on the mountain after possibly summiting in 1924 were poster boys for the great but tragic British hero.

The news that Mount Everest was finally conquered was announced to the world on June 2, 1953, the day that Elizabeth II was crowned as Britain’s queen. I was born two years later.

My father and uncle were keen mountaineers and had been since their university days. In my young life, the highlight of adventure was their annual winter climbing expeditions. Each birthday was one year closer to the time that I would be allowed to join them on a real mountain. My treasured possessions were my climbing jacket and ice axe just waiting for me to turn 15. I devoured books on Himalayan expeditions and our local celebrity was a successful Himalayan climber by the name of Chris Bonnington. "One day I will climb Mount Everest," I would say to myself.

Such thoughts have lingered in my mind through many years of travel, running, family and friends. I had my share of adventures but Everest stayed on the back burner. Would I ever have $50,000 to buy my way onto an expedition? Would I want to climb Everest under the watchful eye and helping hand of a guide?

My chance...at last
In early 2004 came the news that a permit for the Tibetan north, side of Everest could be acquired for a few thousand dollars. A Nepalese outfitter could arrange transport to base camp and supply a cook tent, food and a cook for two months. I was being offered a solid base on which to mount an attempt on Everest. Here is base camp and 45 days to “have at it.” Here was my chance, if I was up to it. I lay awake for several nights, giddy at the thought that it could happen. Should I be responsible or should I go for it. I re-read all my books on climbing adventures and disasters and a few new ones. I tuned all the radios to country music stations playing songs that urged me to take a chance. My mind was made up; now I had to get practical.

In simple terms, the strategy is to end up in high camp, acclimatized, healthy and ready for a summit day. To do this one has to slowly acclimatize, set up a string of camps and stay healthy during six weeks of hard climbing at altitude. You cannot do this alone. I soon had one commitment to join me from adventure racer and cyclist Nelson Snyder.

"Nelson," I said, "if we can get, maybe, four of us to commit to work together then this could be possible." Two weeks later we have commitments from Laurie Bagley, a mountain guide from Shasta, and Humphrey Murphy from Ireland who has climbed an 8,000-meter peak, one of the 14 highest mountains in the world.

Two weeks later and Marnie Pearsall signs on--Marnie is from Wisconsin, a friend of Laurie’s and an ice climber.

Best of all, she is also a physician. We are five. We are all united by the common idea of being let loose on Everest to test our mettle.

Climbing for a worthy cause
Laurie suggests that we should do something useful since we are embarking on this project and suggests raising money for the Breast Cancer Foundation. She has been a guide on previous “Climb for the Cure” fundraisers. Laurie receives the blessing of the Breast Cancer Foundation and we agree to fund raise. At the time that I made the decision to pursue this, I had nine months.

Now I have a mere five months until I leave for the Himalaya. I need to spend weekends climbing the wintry peak of Mt Shasta. I have major equipment to procure.

I have plans to make and numerous details to consider.

Already, two major hurdles have been crossed; first I got time off work. Second, I figured out how to answer the question "Don’t a lot of people die on Everest?"

My answer is, "To put it bluntly, yes. But people go for different reasons and with different priorities. I know when to turn around and I have a lot to come home to."

Questions, questions, questions
The spring climbing season is April and May. We will travel to Katmandu, then drive through the Himalayas to the 17,000-foot base camp.

On the way we will spend five days acclimatizing just to reach base camp. I have been above 20,000 feet six times; no one knows how one will react to 25,000 or 28,000 feet.

The summit is 29,032 feet. The twin evils of low pressure and little oxygen stress the body. The lack of oxygen starves one of energy; energy to climb and energy to keep warm.

Every time I go running, I wonder if I should be carrying a 45-pound backpack in preparation. Should I arrive at the foot of Everest with reserves of muscle or of fat?

During moments of clarity running on the canal banks, my thoughts turn to Camp 1 and Camp 2 and Camp 3. I imagine myself lying in the oxygen-deprived cold of high camp waiting for the alarm clock to signal summit day. Will I be able to struggle out of my sleeping bag? Will I be able to head up?

I searched eBay for climbing gear again tonight--nothing new.

Next month: Oxygen, Sherpas, yaks, boots and summit suit

To contact Crane, e-mail him at info@teamkarma.com.